The Nissan Path Forum Index The Nissan Path
The World Wide Nissan Pathfinder Owner's Forum
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Use Google to search TheNissanPath forums ->
Exhaust popping and very slight smoke from exhaust

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Nissan Path Forum Index -> R51 Engine, Driveline and Powertrain
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
underworld1001



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 311
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Sun Mar 22, 2020 11:13 am    Post subject: Exhaust popping and very slight smoke from exhaust Reply with quote

Hey all,

So I was driving the other day and stopped to get the mail. I noticed an odd sound from under the hood, kinda like there was a SLIGHT exhaust leak. I figured as much and drove it home. Checked it out when I got there and there couldn't find out that would point to where it exactly was, other than it sounded like the drivers side exhaust manifold/cat area. I parked it and haven't moved it in about 2 weeks since then. This morning I took another stab at trying to figure out where it was and drove it around the block. I accelerated a little hard and heard a pop and the exhaust suddenly got much louder. Took it home and revved the engine a little bit and heard popping in the exhaust, similar to open exhausts when the engine is revving down. Not sure where to start on getting this fixed and sure don't want to just throw parts at it. I'm getting no error codes at all so I'm guessing this might not be the cat. Honestly just don't know. Any help is appreciated in advance.

Thanks!
_________________
2011 SV V6 - BF Goodrich KO2 LT265/75 17-C, StopTech slotted rotors (934.42044), free air box mod, Xtreme Truck Performance IMS (http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6), Bilstein 4600's (F-24-197427 / R-24-197434), Moog springs (F-81280 / R-81119 ), CSF aluminum radiator (7029)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
smj999smj
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5646
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might try removing the wheel and plastic wheel liner to get a better view of the exhaust manifold. Most of the time they crack around where the flange is.
_________________
2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD, aftermarket radiator, Airlift 1000's, Bilstein HD rear shocks, Doug Thorley shortie headers and mid-pipes, Magnaflow 12580 muffler, aFe Momentum GT CAI w/ dry filter, XTP plenum spacer, Superchips Flashpaq tuner
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
underworld1001



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 311
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wouldn't that trigger a code though? I'll see if I can tear it apart little by little this week. Manifolds don't look too expensive. If it is the manifold, have you heard of any issues with aftermarket ones? Drivers side initially looks like more of a pain than the passenger side, but I'll figure it out once I dig in.
_________________
2011 SV V6 - BF Goodrich KO2 LT265/75 17-C, StopTech slotted rotors (934.42044), free air box mod, Xtreme Truck Performance IMS (http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6), Bilstein 4600's (F-24-197427 / R-24-197434), Moog springs (F-81280 / R-81119 ), CSF aluminum radiator (7029)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
smj999smj
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5646
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, the passenger side is the worse because you can't get the heat shield off in one piece unless you lift the engine off of the mounts. When I installed my Doug Thorley headers, I had to cut the shield into pieces to remove it without lifting the motor. On the driver's side, you can pull the heat shield out through the top once you get it unbolted, if you have to remove the manifold. I haven't heard of any problems with the aftermarket manifolds. You will need to remove the secondary converter out of the way and remove the header from the bottom to get it out and in. Another thing, it's not uncommon for the heat shield bolts to break while trying to remove them, as they are only 6Mx1.0.
_________________
2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD, aftermarket radiator, Airlift 1000's, Bilstein HD rear shocks, Doug Thorley shortie headers and mid-pipes, Magnaflow 12580 muffler, aFe Momentum GT CAI w/ dry filter, XTP plenum spacer, Superchips Flashpaq tuner
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
underworld1001



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 311
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so I manged to dig in and find out what the issue was. Apparently the flange between the exhaust and the manifold just snapped. Looks like a clean snap too. I'm having a hard time getting the stuff out. As rusted as it looks, I'm tempted to just cut the pipes out, but I'd prefer to keep things as clean as possible. The bolts all came off fairly easily using some Aerokroil I had around. Great stuff. The rear O2 sensor is in such a crappy place I'm having a hard time getting it unplugged. The primary and secondary cats are still connected and look like a serious PITA to remove. No air tools here at the moment to help either.

Anyone know of a easier way to remove the piping vs cutting it all off?




_________________
2011 SV V6 - BF Goodrich KO2 LT265/75 17-C, StopTech slotted rotors (934.42044), free air box mod, Xtreme Truck Performance IMS (http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6), Bilstein 4600's (F-24-197427 / R-24-197434), Moog springs (F-81280 / R-81119 ), CSF aluminum radiator (7029)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
smj999smj
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5646
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They way I would handle it is I would remove the front converter (which would require removing the rear converter, as well, soak the nuts/studs down with rust penetrant, wire brush the nut and threads, and use a torch to heat the nuts and remove them.
_________________
2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD, aftermarket radiator, Airlift 1000's, Bilstein HD rear shocks, Doug Thorley shortie headers and mid-pipes, Magnaflow 12580 muffler, aFe Momentum GT CAI w/ dry filter, XTP plenum spacer, Superchips Flashpaq tuner
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
underworld1001



Joined: 27 Nov 2016
Posts: 311
Location: Austin, TX

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so I got a exhaust manifold ordered from Advance Auto Parts. If the order was online I get 25% off so obviously thats the way I went. A little over $45 off so can't complain.

As far as the cats go, I can't get the nuts/bolts loose. Due to how it snapped both cats want to move when I try and turn. I'm just going to cut them off and replace the cats with some inexpensive ones. I will probably cut the behind the flange of the secondary cat so I can save myself the expensive of buying a new front one. Trying to complete this for less than $500.

I was looking at emissions and checked my vehicle. Just so I'm not mistaken, I need CARB cats right? If so, that's a little odd. The vehicle was originally sold new in Massachusetts. The original owner just traded it in when they moved to Texas where I picked it up. Regardless, just looking for confirmation or possibly a way to confirm via Nissan.


_________________
2011 SV V6 - BF Goodrich KO2 LT265/75 17-C, StopTech slotted rotors (934.42044), free air box mod, Xtreme Truck Performance IMS (http://extremetruckperformance.com/?page_id=6), Bilstein 4600's (F-24-197427 / R-24-197434), Moog springs (F-81280 / R-81119 ), CSF aluminum radiator (7029)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
smj999smj
Site Admin


Joined: 22 Jan 2012
Posts: 5646
Location: Prospect, VA

PostPosted: Sun Apr 19, 2020 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your vehicle is California emissions certified, but you only need to purchase C.A.R.B. certified converters IF your state uses those standards for state inspection. If you live in Texas, you don't need to worry about it.

The states that accept California emissions standards are Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington, as well as the District of Columbia.
_________________
2006 Pathfinder LE VQ40DE AWD, aftermarket radiator, Airlift 1000's, Bilstein HD rear shocks, Doug Thorley shortie headers and mid-pipes, Magnaflow 12580 muffler, aFe Momentum GT CAI w/ dry filter, XTP plenum spacer, Superchips Flashpaq tuner
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Nissan Path Forum Index -> R51 Engine, Driveline and Powertrain All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group