Hi I am new in forum and unfortunately heave a big problem or lack of knowledge my or nissan service in Poland.
Please Guys i need Your advice and opinion.
I will try wrote everything from the beginning
Four weeks ago i bought My Nissan Pathfinder 4.0 SE model
Produce in USA in 2008. Shipping to Poland in 2009.
Carfax is Clear no damage. Poland history clear no damage.
Start Up Config from last owner:
- Trans radiator Bypass.
After few days i was notice that my additional electric fan just starting on every time i was stop car on red light and wait
- ac off
- rpm stable
- temp gauge on dashboard just under half
- temp outside +18C
Drive like this until winter come and now we have -5C outside and the same situation with electric fan.
So i buy OBDII BT ELM327 device to link my phone and check temp from car computer and what i saw was terrible.
When I am stooping on red light i have +97C on comp temp via BT then after one minute electric fan just starts and until i will drive i have +100C-103C , when i am driving 50mph in Your units i have 96-98C on computer temp.
- rpm stable on park 650 when driving 50mph 1200 rpm
- temp gauge on dashboard just under half
- temp outside -5C
I was drive to Nissan Service and spend with car one week and half.
1. Check and change thermostat - was stack on close
Change Engine Coolant to new - re flush old one
- still the same higher temps on computer ,
- now we have longer time to heat engine it is normal because we have new thermostat and big loop open but after while still 100-103C on park
- still the same temp gauge on dashboard just under half when driving and stop car
2. Change temp sensor on engine - they told me that is very bad place for temp sensor in the middle of the block - i think this is smart ass academic talk
- still the same temps on dashboard gauge and Nissan service and my computer 100C-103C
3. Change Fan Clutch - still the same.
Additional observations and knowladge.
1. When i park and have +98C or drive and hit the high rpm temp just drop down in seconds to 92C or 94C
- so i assume that was fan clutch was open all the time and was changed to new one.
- still have a problem
2. I have red Comma Concentrate cooling liquid in loop so me and service guys do not have any idea is that was oil inside.
3. Burping procedure was done few times. No bubbles in loop.
4. Last owner tells me that he make Trans Bypass for safety. Nothing happens while he was use the car.
5. I don't have any interior heating problems
6. No service codes displayed - clear history
Service Ideas.
Service have no idea and they ask me to take car back.
Now they talking that temp in computer is normal ( high 100-103C ) because this is different sensor. Dashboard temp is correct measure ( just under the half ) and leave it just like that.
My Question is ( just keep it mind that i was read many posts on this and another Nissan forums before i was wrote mine ).
1. What is Your correct temp operational in example on BullyDog gauge when driving 50mph and stop on red lights.
2. Did Your Dashboard gauge stays just under half in temps operational
3. When Your additional electric fan is starting under what conditions
- temp outside
- ac off
I think it is not normal to drive alone 50mph in 1200rpm and have 97-98C temps with every time starting electric fun when stop on red light. We have winter outside in Poland NOW !!!
I hope it is not so boring essay for You Guys.
I am waiting for advice and additional questions.
PS. I just don't want overheat my engine - i don't know that if i can trust my dashboard temp gauge anymore.
Overheating Problem 4.0 Nissan - from Poland
Moderator: volvite
-
Emotsetung
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 7:45 am
- Location: Poland
-
Barjrob1972
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:34 am
- Location: Forney, Texas
Sounds like you hit the high points of cooling system repair and the temps you are saying does sound like it's running a bit warm. I have no reference point of temperature assessment other than the factory gauges so I can't help you with that. On my 2012 Silver, the factory gauge rides below the middle (about 1/3 the way up) and doesn't move. The electric fan seems to have a mind of it's own at times so I'm not sure what the schedule is.
The factory thermostat should open at about 76.5*C (167*F) so in colder ambient temps, I would think your vehicle shouldn't be hitting the boiling point but it sounds like it is. I'm assuming that the temps were verified through a professional scanner and not just the Dongle you are using. If not, I would be sure the Dongle is accurate. I looked up what you listed and I don't know that I would trust it fully.
Assuming you have no head gasket issues and no radiator blockages, the cooling system should be pretty straight forward. I, personally, would switch back to a green or blue coolant recommended by Nissan. Also, I have found in the past that applying a good degreaser to the cooling stack when warm, letting it sit for a few minutes and then reverse washing with a hose with a spray nozzle can help lower temps. I've seen a lot of crud come out of those fins and I'm religious about doing this on my tow vehicles. My 2006 Duramax saw a tranny temp drop of about 20*F just by washing the cooler which otherwise looked clean. You may be getting good airflow but if the heat can't transfer from the fins, it doesn't do much good. I use a mixture of liquid Tide and Simple Green but any good surfactant cleaner should work just as well.
If I read correctly, the only area of concern you have not addressed is the water pump itself nor the radiator cap. It may not boil over or show any other signs but if the cap is not holding 16psi, it can cause issues.
If after all you have done, you can verify you have good airflow, good coolant flow through your system and everything is clean and functioning properly, then that's about all you can do.
I actually spent a lot of money on a vehicle which had overheating issues that was finally tracked down to a blocked radiator. I did all the usual flushing and mandatory maintenance and by all visual means, it looked like it was working fine until they warmed up the car and starting shooting the radiator with an IR thermometer. Once they found the difference between the hot and cold spots, they replaced the radiator and all was fine.
Good luck!
The factory thermostat should open at about 76.5*C (167*F) so in colder ambient temps, I would think your vehicle shouldn't be hitting the boiling point but it sounds like it is. I'm assuming that the temps were verified through a professional scanner and not just the Dongle you are using. If not, I would be sure the Dongle is accurate. I looked up what you listed and I don't know that I would trust it fully.
Assuming you have no head gasket issues and no radiator blockages, the cooling system should be pretty straight forward. I, personally, would switch back to a green or blue coolant recommended by Nissan. Also, I have found in the past that applying a good degreaser to the cooling stack when warm, letting it sit for a few minutes and then reverse washing with a hose with a spray nozzle can help lower temps. I've seen a lot of crud come out of those fins and I'm religious about doing this on my tow vehicles. My 2006 Duramax saw a tranny temp drop of about 20*F just by washing the cooler which otherwise looked clean. You may be getting good airflow but if the heat can't transfer from the fins, it doesn't do much good. I use a mixture of liquid Tide and Simple Green but any good surfactant cleaner should work just as well.
If I read correctly, the only area of concern you have not addressed is the water pump itself nor the radiator cap. It may not boil over or show any other signs but if the cap is not holding 16psi, it can cause issues.
If after all you have done, you can verify you have good airflow, good coolant flow through your system and everything is clean and functioning properly, then that's about all you can do.
I actually spent a lot of money on a vehicle which had overheating issues that was finally tracked down to a blocked radiator. I did all the usual flushing and mandatory maintenance and by all visual means, it looked like it was working fine until they warmed up the car and starting shooting the radiator with an IR thermometer. Once they found the difference between the hot and cold spots, they replaced the radiator and all was fine.
Good luck!
Last edited by Barjrob1972 on Wed Dec 03, 2014 12:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
Emotsetung
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2014 7:45 am
- Location: Poland
Thanks for replay.
Measure was taken on my BT Device and big Nissan Service computer. Readings was the same.
Today i was in Service Nissan and take back my car.
I have about 25 miles to my office.
Temp reach 98C so 208F. Electric fan was working on every red light.
I was reach my destination point and wait 10 minutes in front of my office to see how temp will rise on parking spot. Temp never goes above 98C/208F. Electric fan doing job more then i expected. I know this is still not good but better than before 104C/219F
After a while i was go back to My car to verify mechanics job and new coolant clearance.
And what i was saw ....hmmm my new coolant turn into a butter
Four days ago before flushed old one everything was fine with Comma Concentrate Long Life Coolant. Color red without any smell or oil inside.
So i have two options:
From Better to worst.
1. When they flush loop they damage already rusty main radiator and broke border between coolant and tranny section.
- i have tranny bypass but i don't now what is inside my main radiator.
2. More possible Head gasket gone - but this not exactly fits to story. If this happens it was in service Nissan after change coolant maybe on mechanic test ride
Tomorrow i will go to my off-road mechanic.
- check radiator
- re flush coolant
- check oil
It is not good fairy tell with My new Nissan as a main character.
Measure was taken on my BT Device and big Nissan Service computer. Readings was the same.
Today i was in Service Nissan and take back my car.
I have about 25 miles to my office.
Temp reach 98C so 208F. Electric fan was working on every red light.
I was reach my destination point and wait 10 minutes in front of my office to see how temp will rise on parking spot. Temp never goes above 98C/208F. Electric fan doing job more then i expected. I know this is still not good but better than before 104C/219F
After a while i was go back to My car to verify mechanics job and new coolant clearance.
And what i was saw ....hmmm my new coolant turn into a butter
Four days ago before flushed old one everything was fine with Comma Concentrate Long Life Coolant. Color red without any smell or oil inside.
So i have two options:
From Better to worst.
1. When they flush loop they damage already rusty main radiator and broke border between coolant and tranny section.
- i have tranny bypass but i don't now what is inside my main radiator.
2. More possible Head gasket gone - but this not exactly fits to story. If this happens it was in service Nissan after change coolant maybe on mechanic test ride
Tomorrow i will go to my off-road mechanic.
- check radiator
- re flush coolant
- check oil
It is not good fairy tell with My new Nissan as a main character.
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