What Motor Oil is best for the Pathy?

The Gas and Diesel Engines - VQ40De, VK56DE, YD25DDTi, V9X, Transmission, Transfer Case, Oil, Differentials, Axles, Exhaust...

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hfrez
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Postby hfrez » Wed Nov 02, 2011 12:24 pm

Npath wrote:
hfrez wrote:Well, I have decided to go with a K&N oil Filter (I found them for less than $10 on Amazon.com which is what you would pay for a Mobil 1 filter) and I will use Pennzoil Platnum Full Synthetic 5W-30 which is cheaper then Mobil 1 but seems to match its quality. I will start with intervals of 5000 miles for my oil changes and see what happens in the future. I usually wait for sales then buy a larger quantity of what I think I will need. If I'm too lazy or don't have the time WalMart will change your oil for $15 if you bring the oil and filter with you. That is reasonable $15 for the work, $25 for the oil and $10 for the filter that is $50 and my PF is well taken care of.
I've heard Wix, Nissan and Purolator are the best oil filters. I'd consider Wix as I've heard it also from others on the internet and @ work.
Wix is about the same price (around $10) but the filter element is not as big and they are using paper filter. The Purolater is also paper filter but they pack a lot more pleats into it and the filtration is so tight that there is concern about pressure build up when using synthetic; however, it is cheaper and I found them for $6. Watch some of those videos on YouTube. They are so cool. Some guys have bought a bunch of different oil filters and cut them open to show you what's in it. If you watch you will probably never buy a FRAM again. FRAM filters are very flimsy oil filters with cardboard ends.


rtcaravan
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Postby rtcaravan » Wed Nov 02, 2011 4:40 pm

i will never buy a fram filter again after i had one blow apart on me in my old 88 hardbody ! good thing i just started it up at work when it blew so i put a new one on and never bought another one since. i use wix now. my friend who sells and uses conklin and has oils tested all the time and said that with the oil tests napa gold is the best filter to use.

sixstring1
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what oil comes in the engine from the factory in the 4.0 v6?

Postby sixstring1 » Wed Nov 02, 2011 5:47 pm

I have you tubed oil filter comparisions and the royal purple k and n or mobil1 oil filter have better pleats and drain back valves- ?? what oil comes from the factory ?? I read silcolene?? Is that true that is motorcycle oil----------------------- and is it dino or synthtic???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????The oil filter looks the the oil filter on a 6thgen vfr honda streetbike i had very small for that big of an engine.....I also heard the nissan factory oil filter is not that good--like a low level fram--anyhoo i have a little over 500 miles now on mine and was gonna change it at 700 then at 1200 and switch to either mobil one or royal purple and use their filters---------why zmax would not help protect an engine is beyond me i have ran it in every car i have and they seems to run smoother and quieter... :D

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yeziam
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Postby yeziam » Wed Nov 02, 2011 9:23 pm

I use Pennzoil Ultimate Syn as the Pennzoil synthetics have received good reviews and oil analyses in the Nissan V6. I had issues with noisy startups with my Infiniti using Mobil 1 in the winter several years ago. Use Pennz in both vehicles now and no complaints.

aquaracer
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Postby aquaracer » Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:21 pm

I've been using Royal Purple in all my vehicles since my company picked it up as a line to sell in 2004. I figured if large utility companies were using it and raving about it then I'd give it a try.

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Morpheus5000
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Postby Morpheus5000 » Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:04 am

hey boys....

Bardahl for all life!!!

cruzstyle
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Postby cruzstyle » Wed Nov 30, 2011 12:18 pm

i use the mobil 1 0w30 fuel economy its a full synthetic plus its only 24.00 at walmart and the filter i use is the FRAME tough guard. i change at 3K or 3 month intervals and im at 77K miles and the oil is always golden and ive never had any issues besides my MAF issue but that was my fault. so a whole oil change is only 30.00 its a good deal

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Jegan
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Location: Terrebonne, QC

Postby Jegan » Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:53 am

What about winter vs. summer? Do you guys change oil weight dependent on season? I live in Quebec, Canada and we get the full spectrum of weather. -30 Celsius at its worst in winter and +30 celsius at its worst in summer. On top of regular milage based changes, would any one here do a slight seasonal modification as well? Oh and I plan on towing ~4500# trailer for around a month every summer from now on. Thanks again!

J

impulsepath
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Postby impulsepath » Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:55 am

cruzstyle wrote:i use the mobil 1 0w30 fuel economy its a full synthetic plus its only 24.00 at walmart and the filter i use is the FRAME tough guard. i change at 3K or 3 month intervals and im at 77K miles and the oil is always golden and ive never had any issues besides my MAF issue but that was my fault. so a whole oil change is only 30.00 its a good deal
Do you see better fuel economy due to 0w30 oil?

RT-290
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Postby RT-290 » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:37 am

hfrez wrote:Well here is another question then. If I go with sythetic could I get away with buying SuperTech WalMart brand synthetic (made by Pennzoil/Quaker-State) for 5k intervals? Or would a best brand like Mobil 1 be more advisable?
I use Super-tech 5w-30 in my Pathfinder and change at 6k. I used super-tech on my 99 Camry for 9 years and nearly 100k without issue. It's made by a name brand oil company. I've heard Castrol from a former Walmart auto manager.

Joel

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smj999smj
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Postby smj999smj » Tue Jan 29, 2013 10:47 am

SuperTech is made by Royal Shell, the makers of Rotella brand oil. I use it myself; tough to beat a full synthetic at $18 for a 5 qt. jug!

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:14 pm

I ran regular 10w-30 in my 06 PF until 107,000 miles. I switched to Mobile 1 synthetic 5w-30. I have 3000 miles on that oil change and my oil cooler gasket started to leak..fixed that and now it seems I have small leaks in the valve cover gaskets. I posted this under another post as well.

Maybe its coincidence..or maybe the synthetic caused the leaks...but I think I may switch back to regular 10w-30

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:47 pm

I'm a believer in synthetic. That being said, if you wait too long (more than 60k miles), there is a significant risk that seals will be dried out due to sludge being left by conventional dyno oil. You may see leaks due to this.

I'd rather have no sludge.

t

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dawgn86
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Postby dawgn86 » Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:49 pm

Thanks Terry..I always respect your opinion on things

should I just leave the synthetic in for now?

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disallow
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Postby disallow » Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:29 pm

I would leave it. Having an engine held together by sludge is a problem waiting to happen. I'd rather know, and be able to fix it.

That being said, your issue with the oil cooler is not unique. Could be unrelated, or possibly the oil change contributed to and exacerbated the issue.
Last edited by disallow on Tue Jan 29, 2013 1:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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